Use the Hudson Top pattern to make an effortless layer in cross-dyed linen. This boxy poncho is open at the sides with ties at the waist.

MATERIALS LIST

  • 2 yards 60"-wide Fabric
  • 1 Spool Thread
  • 1 package single Fold Bias Tape
  • Hudson Top Pattern

PATTERN WORK

Lay the Front pattern piece of the Hudson Top under a larger piece of pattern paper. Trace the neckline shape of the size that you have selected (the sample is a size medium and the neckline has been raised 1" at the center front). Trace the length of that same size (or the length that you want at the center front) and use the center front foldline as indicated on the pattern.

Starting at the neck point at the shoulder, draw a straight line perpendicular to the center front foldline to the desired length. Refer to the illustration. This is the length from the neck point to the end point on your arm above the elbow, plus a hem allowance. The line on the sample garment is 16".

Pivot at the end point of the above line and draw a second line parallel to the center front foldline ending at the bottom cut line.

Allow for 1½" hem allowances and 1" finished hems.

Repeat the above to make a Back pattern, tracing the back neckline shape of the Back pattern piece.

CONSTRUCTION

Cut out one Front and one Back. Also cut out two strips across the width of 60" fabric, each 1" wide. Each strip will be cut in half lengthwise to make four ties.

Sew the shoulder seams, right side together and serge finish the edges together. Press towards the Back.

Use pre-made single fold bias tape to finish the neckline. Open out one fold of the tape and place it ⅜" from the raw edge of the neckline. Stitch along the crease of the fold, overlapping the tape at the center back. Trim the seam and clip the seam allowances at the curves. Press to the wrong side and topstitch along the outer folded edge of the tape.

Cut 2 tagboard templates:

1" X 11"

1½" X 11"

Using the 1½"-wide template, press the raw edges of all four sides to the wrong side. Use the 1"-wide template to press a finished 1" hem (see pages 26, 27 of the Better Techniques tutorial).

Miter all four corners of the poncho (see pages 62-67 of the Better Techniques tutorial or pages 3, 4 of the Mastering Miters book).

Make four narrow ties. Put the poncho on to determine where to install them. Sew the ends to the inside edges of the side hems. 

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