As we begin construction of the Cottage Shirt, I wanted to point out that you will see images of different fabrics throughout the process. I am using this Dollface cotton to make my shirt, and you will see images of many of the construction steps using this fabric. However, some of the steps or techniques used in making the Cottage have been highlighted in our Sew Confident! tutorials. In these instances, I will be using images from the Sew Confident!, as they have been carefully photographed to be as clear as possible. Now, let's get sewing!
Begin by staystitching the neck edge of the FRONT (1). Remember to staystitch on the seamline or just a stitch width inside the seam allowance.
The directions then say to staystitch through the top dot along the side seam. However, that should be the middle dot along the side seam. If you look at the illustration, you will see the stitching through the correct dot. We will be changing the word top to middle in future printings of the pattern.
Using the Pressing with Templates method, which we discussed in Part One, press 1¼ʺ to the wrong side along the center front hem. To form a double fold front hem, press 1¼ʺ again. Continue pressing ⅝ʺ to the bottom.
Leaving front hems pressed in place, press ⅝ʺ to the wrong side along the bottom. If you are working with a slippery fabric, I recommend adding a strip of Fusi-Web to the bottom hem, to keep it stable as you stitch it. To do this, simply cut a length of Fusi-Web the length of the bottom of the hem. On the right side if your garment, press the Fusi-Web, glue side down, in the ⅝ʺ seam allowance as shown below. Press. You will leave the paper covering on the Fusi-Web for now, you will adhere it to the garment in a later step.
Leaving the ⅝ʺ in place, fold bottom hem up an even 6ʺ to wrong side, matching dots. Press, open out bottom hem.
If you are using a slippery fabric, I recommend adding a strip of Fusi-Web to the bottom hem, to keep it stable as you stitch it. To do this, simply cut a length of Fusi-Web to fit the bottom of the hem. On the right side if your garment, press the Fusi-Web, glue side down, in the ⅝ʺ seam allowance as shown below.
Pull off the paper covering on the Fusi-Web to see the strip of glue now adhered to the fabric.
With right sides together, fold the bottom hem to the right side along the crease line, matching the side dot and keeping the ⅝ʺ turndown in place. Pin, and press along the seam allowance to adhere the Fusi-Web to the fabric. This will stop the fabric from shifting.
Stitch front seam through bottom hem.
If you are sewing a bulky fabric, trim out the excess fabric of the first fold within the distance of the hem. Start trimming ⅝ʺ below the top of the hem in order to leave enough fabric to tuck into the hem allowance.
Press seam open and turn to right side, refolding front hem.
Use a Chalkoner to trace a topstitching line along the front hem from the neck to the bottom hem. Note: If you are using a slippery fabric, you may want to adhere the front hem down with Fusi-Web, as we did with the bottom hem, to keep the fabric from shifting.
Topstitch along your traced line from the neck to through the bottom hem.
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