What Is Scuba? The Ultimate Guide to This Versatile Fabric

Have you ever wondered why designers keep reaching for scuba fabric in their collections?

This unique double-knit fabric has taken the fashion world by storm, and for good reason.

While it shares its name with diving gear, scuba fabric is actually a game-changing textile that's revolutionizing how we think about structured garments.

Whether you're an experienced sewist looking to expand your fabric knowledge or just fabric-curious, understanding scuba fabric could open up exciting new possibilities for your next project. 

What is Scuba Fabric?

Scuba fabric is a medium-weight, double-knit textile that combines structure with stretch. Despite its name, it has nothing to do with diving–though its smooth, sleek finish might remind you of modern diving suits.

At its core, scuba is constructed with fine-gauge knit fibers and smooth thread, creating a polished, almost neoprene-like surface.

Think of it as ponte fabric's more sophisticated cousin. While both are double knits, scuba has a distinctly modern feel with its slightly spongy body and remarkable ability to hold shape.

What makes scuba truly special is its unique combination of properties:

• Structure: Unlike traditional knits that tend to drape, scuba has enough body to create sculptural silhouettes
• Stretch: The fabric offers comfortable 4-way stretch while maintaining its shape
• Stability: Despite being a knit, scuba is remarkably stable and easy to handle during sewing
• Surface: The smooth, sleek finish gives garments a high-end, polished look
• No-fray edges: One of sewists' favorite features–cut edges won't unravel

This distinctive blend of characteristics has made scuba fabric a favorite among both high-end designers and home sewers looking to create sophisticated, structured garments with modern appeal.

Pros and Cons of Scuba Fabric: What Every Sewist Should Know

The Pros

1. Easy to Handle

One of scuba's greatest strengths is how cooperative it is during construction.

The fabric remains stable under your presser foot, making it a joy to sew straight, even seams.

When cutting, you won't have to fight with shifting or slipping layers, and since the edges don't fray, you can skip many of the tedious seam-finishing steps required with other fabrics.

This makes it an excellent choice for sewists who want to focus on construction rather than fabric management.

2. Forgiving to Work With

If you're not always perfect with your stitching (and who is?), scuba fabric has your back. Its smooth, stable surface helps hide minor sewing imperfections, and it's remarkably resistant to showing pin marks.

Made a mistake? No problem.

Scuba recovers well from unpicking, and its natural structure means you can often skip interfacing altogether.

3. Versatile Performance

Perhaps most impressive is how scuba performs in finished garments.

It maintains a beautiful structure without feeling stiff or rigid, while its four-way stretch ensures comfort throughout wear.

The fabric naturally resists wrinkles, making it perfect for travel or busy lifestyles. It's incredibly durable, holds up well to regular wear, and often doesn't require lining–saving you time and effort in construction.

The Cons

1. Temperature Sensitive

Working with scuba requires careful attention to heat management. The fabric can melt under high iron temperatures, making pressing a delicate operation that demands patience and precision.

This sensitivity extends to wear as well–scuba isn't your friend on hot days, and you might find yourself fighting static cling in certain conditions.

2. Thickness Challenges

The medium-weight nature of scuba that gives it such a lovely structure can also create challenges.

Seam intersections can become bulky and difficult to manage, potentially overwhelming delicate machine parts.

If your design calls for gathering or pleating, you'll find scuba resistant to creating soft folds, and its thickness limits its draping capabilities.

3. Technical Limitations

Some technical aspects of working with scuba require special consideration.

Unpicking stitches can leave visible holes, and traditional garment techniques like starching or heavy pressing aren't options.

The fabric's limited breathability might restrict its use in certain garments, and some types of closures can be challenging to incorporate effectively.

Best Projects and Use Cases for Scuba Fabric

1. Statement Dresses and Skirts

The fabric's body and structure make it ideal for dresses that command attention. It can hold architectural shapes, create stunning A-line silhouettes, and maintain crisp pleats without weighing you down. Fit-and-flare dresses particularly benefit from scuba's ability to smooth over curves while maintaining shape.

Our 8th Avenue Skirt is a slightly flared, below-waist skirt that will work well with scuba fabric to maintain the its more structured 

2. Modern Jackets and Coats

Scuba's smooth finish and slight stretch make it perfect for contemporary outerwear. It creates clean lines and structured shapes while offering more comfort than traditional suiting fabrics. Plus, its wrinkle-resistant nature keeps you looking polished all day.

The Chicago Coat is a must-have piece for every winter wardrobe. For a truly standout piece, create this pattern using scuba fabric to achieve a bold, stylish look that's both modern and timeless.

3. Structured Tops

Looking to create tops with interesting architectural details? Scuba excels at holding unique shapes and design elements like peplums, structured collars, or dramatic sleeves. The fabric's stability means these details will keep their shape wear after wear.If you want to dive right in, our West End Top is an ideal pattern to embrace the structured, polished look of scuba fabric.

4. Professional Wear

The polished surface and shape-holding abilities make scuba perfect for office-appropriate pieces that need to look crisp but feel comfortable. Think pencil skirts, sheath dresses, and tailored tops that move with you through long days.

Impress your colleagues at work with the stylish Barcelona Top in scuba fabric! Its sleek, structured design gives you that polished, confident look—perfect for stepping up and taking the lead.

Don't Use Scuba Fabric When You Need…

1. Breathability and Airflow 

Let's be honest - scuba isn't your friend on a hot summer day. The same properties that give it structure also limit airflow, making it a poor choice for:

• Summer garments
• Activewear that needs to wick sweat
• Layering pieces worn close to the skin

2. Fluid, Drapey Movement 

That beautiful structure comes at a cost. Avoid scuba when your pattern calls for:

• Soft gathers and ruching
• Flowing, romantic drapes
• Delicate pleats that need to fall naturally

3. Traditional Tailoring Techniques

If your project requires classic tailoring methods, scuba might fight you every step of the way.

Skip it for:

• Garments needing sharp-pressed creases
• Projects with traditional interfacing
• Pieces requiring extensive pressing and steaming

4. Ultra-Fitted Garments 

While scuba has stretch, it's not your best friend for skin-tight pieces:

• Form-fitting bodysuits
• Compression garments
• Dance and performance wear

Ready to Start Your Scuba Sewing Journey?

Now that you understand what scuba fabric is, when to use it, and what to expect during construction, you're ready to explore this versatile textile in your own projects.

While scuba fabric might not be suitable for every garment in your wardrobe, its unique properties make it an invaluable addition to any serious sewist's fabric knowledge.

If you are nervous about sewing with Scuba, Linda is here to help.

In her Craftsy class, You Can Sew That: Taming Tricky Fabric, she has a special tutorial on sewing with scuba.

But that isn't the only fabric she covers in the class, there are six chapters that touch on everything from openwork fabric to laminate.

Use this link to get 50% off the price of the class!