The Secrets of Sewing with Scuba

It seems like everyone in the sewing world is talking about scuba - and I don't mean the kind with the snorkel. Scuba fabric, a stretchy double knit that is similar to a ponte, has been making its way onto runways for years and now fashion sewers are starting to experiment with this fun fabric.

One of the reasons designers love scuba is the body that it gives to garments, as you can see in the below image. Constructed with fine-gauge knit fibers and smooth thread, scuba fabric has a sleek, polished finish. This unique construction creates a stable, medium-weight fabric that's both structured and easy to handle during sewing.

And, while you can sew the entire thing on a serger, if you don't feel like finishing seam allowances or hems, don't worry - this fabric will never fray!

Below, you'll find our top tips for working with this fabric, along with three inspiring patterns to spark your next project.

10 Tips for Sewing with Scuba

Tip 1: Choose the Right Needle

Use a ballpoint or stretch needle in your sewing machine. This helps the needle glide between the loops of the knit fabric instead of piercing them, reducing skipped stitches and snags. 

Tip 2: Practice on Scraps

Always test your stitch settings on a small scrap of scuba before sewing your main project. This helps you fine-tune tension and stitch type so you get the neatest possible seams.

Tip 3: Opt for Stretch Stitches

A narrow zigzag or a specialized stretch stitch works well for scuba fabric. These stitches allow the seams to stretch without popping when worn or handled. 

Tip 4: Mind Your Pressing

Scuba generally requires minimal pressing, but if you do press it, use a low temperature and a pressing cloth to prevent marking or melting the fabric. High heat can melt or distort synthetic fibers, so always test on a scrap first and avoid pressing directly on the right side.

Tip 5: Consider a Walking Foot

Because scuba is thicker and sometimes spongy, a walking foot can help feed the layers evenly. This prevents shifting or puckering while you sew.

Tip 6: Pin or Clip Generously

Scuba is springy, so it's helpful to use plenty of pins or clips to keep layers aligned. Wonder Clips are especially useful because they won't leave holes in the fabric.

Tip 7: Use Minimal Seam Finishes

One of the perks of scuba is that it doesn't fray. You can skip finishing your seam allowances if you're pressed for time. However, if you want a polished look, consider a simple zigzag or serged edge.

Tip 8: Let the Fabric's Structure Shine

Scuba's body and drape can create sculptural silhouettes. Patterns with clean lines or design details like princess seams really pop in this fabric.

Tip 9: Be Aware of Bulk

Scuba is thicker than many knits, so watch out for bulk at the seams and hems. Grade your seams or trim them down to reduce thickness where necessary.

Tip 10: Embrace Topstitching Details

Topstitching can look stunning on scuba, thanks to its smooth surface. Experiment with contrasting threads to highlight style lines or panel seams.

3 Sewing Patterns for Scuba

I am eager to try sewing with scuba myself, especially since we have gotten in some incredibly fun scuba fabrics. But I can't decide which project I want to try first. Will you help me? I've chosen three options, which you can see below. Let me know which project is your favorite.

1. West End Top

I think I can recreate this fun ready-to-wear jacket using our West End top. They both have hoods and zip fronts, and I actually prefer the shorter sleeve of our West End. I would like to jazz up the fabric by using our black and white polka dot scuba knit. This might be my favorite option (I love polka dots!) but check out the others below...

TIP: After cutting your pieces, do a quick basting stitch for the hood and front zipper section to ensure everything lines up perfectly.

2. Barcelona Top

As soon as I saw this neon yellow top, I thought of our Barcelona pattern - they even both have a tie at the bottom! The bright yellow makes this top such a statement piece, but I think I would like to go more classic with it. Our black/grey scuba would be just the thing - a cozy black top that would go wth everything! And, I could alternate colors, highlighting the pieced neck of the Barcelona. 

TIP: Reinforce the tie area with a bit of interfacing if you want added structure

3. Chicago Coat

And for my final project option, the Chicago coat! I mean, this coat is a must-have for any wardrobe, and mine is seriously lacking. While the coat on the left is made in a classic grey, I think I would punch it up and try a statement piece, using our vintage floral scuba fabric. How great would that look, paired with black boots? 

TIP: Use a narrow zigzag stitch to let your seams move and stretch with the fabric.

What do you think I should try? Comment below letting me know if you prefer the West End, Barcelona or Chicago so I can get sewing!

If you are nervous about sewing with Scuba, Linda is here to help. In her Craftsy class, You Can Sew That: Taming Tricky Fabric, she has a special tutorial on sewing with scuba. But that isn't the only fabric she covers in the class, there are six chapters that touch on everything from openwork fabric to laminate. Use this link to get 50% off the price of the class!

Now that you've got the essentials for sewing with scuba, we hope you feel inspired and confident to try your first (or next) project. There's so much more to discover, and we'd love to keep sharing expert tips and tricks to help you elevate your craft.

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