Are you ready to start sewing your Zayn top? Hopefully you have already downloaded and assembled the pattern, and cut out the fabric. Now we are ready to breeze through steps 1-5 of the pattern! A few notes: I will be making the Zayn in both a woven and a knit version. Most of the instructions are applicable for both substrates so the bulk of my images will be using woven material. However, if there is a step that is knit-only or woven-only then I will show images of the knit. Look for Woven or Knit in front of specific instructions. Also, don't forget to join us on our Sew-Along Facebook Group. It is a great place to share your project, ask questions and keep up with what everyone else is working on.
Step 1 asks us to staystitsh along the neck edge on the Right Front, Right Back, Upper Left Front and Upper Left Back pieces. Staystitching is a technique that helps to keep your fabric in shape. For instance, my green woven fabric is pretty pliable, especially on a curved cut like the neckline. By staystitching I can be assured that the neckline won't stretch out of shape.
When you are staystitching, your stitching line should be just under the seam allowance. You can see in the image below that the edge of my fabric is just to the left of my 5/8 inch seam line. I make sure that I don't lose my stitching spot by using a seam guide, which is a magnetic bumper that makes sure I don't veer to another line.
Steps 2 and 3 ask us to finish the side of the Upper Left Front and Upper Left Back. I chose to finish my woven fabric with a serger, using a three-thread stitch. Now, for those of you who don't have a serger you can zig-zag the edge, or use pinking sheers. I don't suggest using French Seams for this garment because of the confluence of seams in the front. For those of you making a knit version, I have good news - you don't have to do anything! Because your knit fabric won't unravel, you can leave it unfinished. However, if you are like me, you want to finish those edges. I am using a four-thread stitch on my serger for my knit version.
Step 4 asks us to stitch the Right Front to the Right Back at the shoulder and side seam. Simple enough! On this step you will finish the seam after you stitch (as opposed to steps 2 and 3). Finish your seam using your chosen method and press the seam towards the back.
Step 5 has us finish the bottom hem on the Right Front and Back pieces and then stitch a 1 inch hem.Using my Dritz Eazy-Hem Template, I simply pressed up the bottom edge of the garment to the 1 inch line. (Yes, this photo was taken before I serged the bottom hem).
I love using the template method, but the Eazy-Hem is metal and gets incredibly hot when you iron on it. What I would suggest is you make your own templates. To do that cut a manila file folder into strips the width of the finished hem, which in this case is 1 inch. Note that the photos below are our "stock" template photos so they have different measurements on them.
WOVEN If you don't have a serger you can always fold under the edge of your hem to finish it. To do that, you will also need cut a template that is 5/8 inch wide. Begin hemming by placing the 1 inch template on the wrong side of the fabric. Press the hem allowance up over the template matching the raw edge to the top.
Then, place your 5/8 inch template in the crease and press the remains fabric up and over the bottom of the template. Bring the folded edge up and pin. Topstitch the edge.
KNIT If you are working with a knit you can certainly just fold you fabric up the 1 inch and topstitch. However, I like to secure my knit with a line of Fusi-Web. Fuji-Web is a double-sided fusible tape that acts as a temporary bond. To adhere, simply cut a piece of Fusi-Web the length of your hem. Place the tape glue side down on the wrong side of your fabric.
Using medium heat press the tape to you fabric. Once adhered, peel off the paper backing.
Fold your hem allowance up and press, adhering it to the Fusi-Web. Finish by topstitching.
There you have it, Steps 1-5 done! We will see you soon for our next post, which will cover step 6-12.
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