Zayn Shirt Sew-Along Part 4

Welcome back to the Zayn Sew-Along! Today we will be finishing the side and bottom of the drape and making mitered corners. That may sound intimidating to some of you newer sewists, but once you get the hang of it, it is pretty simple. Let's get sewing...

To begin, Step 13 asks us to finish the side edge of the drape, using your chosen finishing method. Once again I used a three-thread serge on my woven and four on my knit. When you have finished the side edges of your drape, press the hem allowance 1 inch to the wrong side of the garment, using the template method outlined in steps 1-5. Do the same with the bottom edges of the Front and Back Drape. 

If you aren't using a serger on a woven garment, fold under your hems using the template method. You will begin by placing the widest template on the wrong side of the fabric. Press the fabric over the edge, matching the raw edge to the top edge of the template. Just so you know, I'm switching over to some better technique photos for the following steps, which is why they look different then my garment. 

Then, open out your hem allowance and place the narrower template in the press crease and press the remaining fabric over the bottom of the template. Use this finishing method for the side edge of your drape, as well as the bottom edges of the Front and Back Drape. 

For Step 15 press the adjacent hems on top of one another. Place one pin in the hem allowance only, perpendicular to the hem fold. Place a second pin in the opposite hem fold at the intersection of the two hems, forming an X. The picture below shows two hem allowances that have been pressed under with the template method. You can see that in my garment the edges of the hem allowance are serged. 

Step 16 Open out the hems – if you have turned under your hems with the template method, keep those turn downs in place. With right sides together, match the pins at the folded edges. The two edges will line up. Mark a diagonal line from the pins to the point where the creaseline meets the diagonal fold. 

Now, sew on the marked line from the pins to the point, backstitching at both ends. Trim seam to 1/4 inch. Don't trim any additional fabric out of the point. 

​Step 17 Press the seam open over the narrow wood rail of a point presser. Turn the corner to the outside – use a point turner to refine the point if needed. 

Lightly press the miter and hem in place. 

While this is an optional step for a WOVEN, it is a must for a KNIT. Use strips of Fusi-Web to fuse the hem in place first before stitching. After pressing sections of Fusi-Web along the inside of the turned hem, remove the paper covering to expose the line of glue. Press to fuse the hems in place. 

If you are making a woven Zayn and opted not to use Fusi-Web to secure your hem, hand baste the hem in place with silk thread. 

Step 18 has us place the Upper Left Front to the Upper Left Back right sides together at the shoulder seams. Now pin and stitch. Finish your seam and press it towards the back. 

Great job! Join us in a few days when we tackle the center front and hems.