Hand sewing is not only useful for quickly patching up tears, but it also allows for many decorative designs that can only be created by hand.
However, there are a LOT of different stitches for hand sewing.
And if you don't use the right stitch for the right application, you might find the seams unraveling and all your work coming undone.
That's why today, we'll go over the 14 most common hand sewing stitches, what they're used for, and a step-by-step on how to sew them.
There's a lot to cover, so let's dive right in!
Types of Hand Stitches Every Sewist Should Master (And How to Do Them)
To start, let's take a look at the four most common hand stitches and how to sew them.
1. Running Stitch (Straight Stitch)
Running stitches (also known as straight stitches) are the simplest hand-sewn stitch you can do. Use this stitch for basting (temporary stitches), gathering fabric, or as a simple seam for lightweight fabrics.
Here's how to do it:
- Thread your needle and create a knot on one end.
- Push your needle into the fabric (typically starting from the underside of the fabric), and pull the thread through.
- Push your needle through the fabric again, around ⅛" to ¼" away from your first stitch.
- Continue this pattern until you reach the end of your fabric or pattern.
- When you reach the end, tie a small knot on the underside and cut the excess thread.
And that's it!
2. Backstitch
Backstitch is one of the strongest hand-sewn stitches you can go for. It has the same applications as a straight stitch, but is strong enough to be used as a regular seam.
Here's how to backstitch:
- Thread your needle with a knot on the end.
- Push your needle through the underside of your fabric and pull the thread through. For simplicity, let's call this Point A.
- Insert your needle into the thread again around ¼" - ⅛" away from Point A. This is Point B.
- Push your needle through the underside of your fabric again, around ¼" - ⅛" away from Point B. This is Point C.
- Instead of continuing forward to point D, insert your needle back into Point B, overlapping with the stitch that's already there.
- Push your needle through the underside of your fabric on Point D, ¼" - ⅛" away from Point C.
- From Point D, insert your needle into Point C, and come out from the underside of Point E.
- Repeat this process of stitching one step back all the way through.
- Once you reach the end, tie a simple knot on the underside of the fabric and cut off any excess thread.
3. Slip Stitch
Slip stitching makes your seams nearly invisible from the outside. Typically used for blind hems while sewing pants, it's a great way to give your pair a clean finish.
To slip stitch by hand, you'll first need to fold your fabric in a particular way. Here's how to fold it:
- Fold the edge of your fabric up by ¼ to 1 inch, depending on how deep you want your hem. Make sure the wrong side of the fabric is facing inward.
- Use an iron to press the fold flat.
- Fold the fabric up again so that the raw edge is completely enclosed between the layers.
- Press the new fold to keep everything in place.
Once your fabric is folded and ready, follow these steps to slipstitch:
- Thread your needle with a knot on the edge. For slip stitches, it's best to use thread that's the same color as your fabric. That way, it's almost invisible from the right side of the garment.
- Insert the needle into the folded edge so the knot is hidden inside, and bring the needle out through the top of the fold.
- Just above the folded edge, take a tiny stitch into the main fabric — try to grab only a few threads so the stitch is barely visible on the outside.
- Insert the needle back into the fold at the exact spot where the thread came out, then run the needle forward inside the fold about ¼ to ½ inch.
- Bring the needle out again and repeat the small stitch above the fold.
- Continue stitching in this way until you reach the end of the hem.
- To finish, instead of going back into the fold, form a small loop with your thread and pass the needle through it to make a knot.
- Repeat the knot once more for extra hold, then trim the thread.
4. Overstitch (Overcast Stitch, Whip Stitch)
While slip stitches are invisible, overstitches (also called overcast or whip stitches) are one of the most visible stitches you can sew. However, they are very strong and are great for holding two pieces of fabric tightly shut.
Overstitches are used for raw edges to prevent the fabric from fraying. They're also useful when sewing toys or other projects that require durable seams, or for decorative finishes in clothing.
To sew an overstitch:
- Add a knot to the end of your thread.
- Start by pushing your needle out from between your fabric. This way, the knot stays hidden once you're finished.
- Instead of going through the fabric with your needle, go over the edge of the fabric to the other side.
- Insert your needle ⅛" - ¼" away from your first stitch, push it through the fabric, and then bring the needle over the fabric again.
- Continue this pattern, and you should have a coil-shaped thread on the edge of your fabric.
- Once you reach the edge, tie a simple knot and cut off excess thread.
Functional Stitches for Construction and Repair
Whether your stuffed toy got ripped, or you want to hide the threads away from your finish, here are three functional stitches you should know how to use!
1. Catch Stitch
Catch stitches are a great alternative to slip stitches. They also show very little thread on the right side of the garment, so they give your clothes a clean and professional-looking finish.
Catch stitches are less durable than slip stitches. However, they're more flexible than slip stitches, making them perfect for stretchable fabrics.
To sew a catch stitch:
- With the wrong side of the fabric facing you, fold up the edge about 1", so that the wrong sides of the fabric are facing each other.
- Stick your needle into the fold so the knot hides inside the fold, and pierce the needle out through the hem side of the fold.
- Bring your needle slightly above the fold in a diagonal, and stitch through a few threads of fabric. You'll want this stitch to be small, since this is the only part that'll show on the right side of the garment.
- Avoid pulling on your thread as you sew a catch stitch. You want to keep the threads slightly flexible, since that's what catch stitches are for!
- Bring your needle back down to the fold in a diagonal, and stitch through the hem only (don't stitch through both layers of the fold, just the hem).
- Repeat these steps until you get to the end. Tie a knot and cut off excess fabric.
You should have a zigzag pattern on the wrong side of your fabric, while barely any threads are visible from the right side. Remember to use a thread that's the same color as your fabric to minimize visibility.
2. Blanket Stitch
Blanket stitches are very similar to overstitches. They're also used for fraying prevention, toys, and other projects, and creating durable seams.
The only difference between them is that blanket stitches are generally stronger and usually have a more uniform appearance.
Here's how to sew a blanket stitch:
- Knot the end of your thread.
- Start by pushing your needle out from between your fabric to keep the knot hidden in the finished piece.
- Instead of going through the fabric with your needle, go over the edge of the fabric to the other side.
- Insert your needle ⅛" - ¼" away from your first stitch and push it through the fabric. However, don't pull the thread all the way through just yet!
- Pull on the thread until there's a small loop remaining. Then insert the needle through that loop.
- And then bring the needle over the fabric again.
- Continue this pattern, you should have a coil-shaped thread on the edge of your fabric.
- Once you reach the edge, tie a simple knot and cut off excess thread.
3. Ladder Stitch
Ladder stitches are another great way to sew two pieces of fabric together while showing as little thread as possible.
- Fold the edges of your fabric pieces around ¼".
- Place both folded edges of your fabric pieces together. You can pin these in place if you want.
- Thread your needle with a knot on the end, and start inside one of the folds.
- Push the needle out of the fold, and bring it directly across to the other fold.
- Make a small stitch (about ⅛" - ¼").
- Bring your needle directly across to the other fold again, and make a small stitch there.
- Your stitches and thread should look like a ladder while you're doing this.
- Repeat this until you reach the end of your fabric. Pull on the thread so that it closes the seam.
- Tie a simple knot and cut excess thread.
Specialized Hand Stitches for Specific Applications
There are several special seams that you might think only machines can do. However, the truth is that anything a machine can do, your hands can do as well!
Here are three specialized hand stitches for very specific applications.
1. Button Stitch
- Thread your needle and create a knot at the end of the thread.
- Anchor your thread by sewing a few small stitches where your button will go.
- Put the button on top of the stitch.
- Sew the button in place by going in and out of the holes of the button with your needle several times until the button is secure.
- For 2-hole buttons, let the thread go up through one hole and down through the other.
- For 4-hole buttons, sew in an X-shaped pattern.
- Create a shank by wrapping the thread between the button and fabric about 3 times.
- Finish by pushing the needle to the back side of the fabric, stitching a few times, adding a knot, and trimming excess thread.
2. French Seam (By Hand)
French Seams are one of the cleanest types of seams you can use for your garments. They're practically invisible from the outside, but also very durable.
These seams are usually sewn with a sewing machine. But if you don't have one around (or you want to test your hand sewing skills), you can do it by hand as well.
Here's how:
- Place the wrong sides of the fabric together, so the right sides are facing out.
- Mark your seamlines. This is usually around ⅜".
- Sew the fabric together using backstitches.
- Press the seam allowance to one side using an iron.
- Cut the seam allowance as much as you can. Try aiming for 1/16", but be careful not to cut into the seam line.
- Gently split the trimmed seam allowance open with your fingers.
- Press it flat using your iron or your finger to create a crisp fold (a "crisp ditch").
- Fold the fabric so the right sides are now facing each other (wrong sides out).
- Push the seam outward so the fold sits directly on the seam line.
- Press the seam flat.
- Sew a second seam (backstitch) with a ¼" seam allowance, enclosing the trimmed edges inside.
- Press the seam one more time for a clean, polished look.
3. Felled Seam (By Hand)
Felled seams encase the raw edges inside a fold, giving them a clean and strong finish. These are typically sewn by machine, but here's how to do it by hand:
- Place the wrong sides of the fabric together (right sides facing out).
- Pin or baste the edges to align them.
- Using a backstitch, sew along the edge with a ⅝" seam allowance.
- Trim one side of the seam allowance down to about ¼".
- Leave the other seam allowance untrimmed (it stays at ⅝").
- Fold the longer seam allowance over the trimmed one, encasing the raw edge.
- Then fold that whole thing flat against the fabric, so the raw edges are hidden underneath.
- Press with your fingers or an iron.
- Use an overstitch to sew the folded edge to the fabric.
Decorative and Embellishment Hand Stitches
Decorative stitches usually serve no functional purpose. Instead, they're there to give your clothes some style and flare.
While sewing these stitches, it's best to use a thread color that complements or contrasts with your fabric color. You don't want to use the same color as your fabric since these threads are made to be seen, not hidden!
1. Chain Stitch
Chain stitches aren't functional. Instead, they're a lovely decorative stitch that you can easily add while sewing a dress or any garment you're working on.
- Push your needle and thread out from the underside of your fabric.
- Insert your needle back into the same stitch it came from, but instead of pulling the thread all the way through, leave a little loop.
- Push your needle out from the underside of your fabric about ⅛" - ¼" away from the first stitch.
- Bring your needle through the loop from the previous stitch, and pull gently to create a "chain."
- Insert your needle back into the stitch it came from, and repeat this process all the way down.
- Finish with a knot.
2. French Knot
French Knots are small thread balls that you can add to your clothes for some style. Here's how to sew them:
- Push your needle and thread out from the underside of your fabric.
- Hold your needle on top of the stitch, and wrap your thread around the needle two times.
- With the thread wrapped around the needle, insert it back into the stitch. Hold on to the thread lightly while doing this. You don't want to unravel the thread, but you also don't want the wrapped thread to go through the stitch.
- Gently pull the needle and thread from the underside. This should create a nice thread ball on the topside of your garment when you're done.
- Repeat these steps until you get a row of French knots.
3. Feather Stitch
Another super pretty stitch you can add is a feather stitch. You can use this stitch to add a floral style to your clothes (since it also looks like a leaf), or even take it a step further and create flowers using this stitch.
Whatever the case, here's how it's done:
- To sew a floral stitch, mark four parallel lines on your fabric.
- Push your needle and thread out from the underside of the fabric on 1st line (the top line).
- Skip the second line and insert your needle directly into the third line. Don't pull the thread all the way through. Instead, leave a loop.
- Go forward one stitch length and press your needle out on the second line.
- Bring your needle through the loop in between the 1st and 3rd line, and pull the thread all the way through.
- Insert your needle directly into the fourth line. Leave a loop.
- Repeat the process by moving forward a stitch length, sticking the needle out from the 3rd line, and bringing it through the loop.
- Continue this looping pattern until you've created a stitch that looks like a feather.
- Knot and cut off excess thread.
4. Cross Stitch
Cross stitches are one of the most popular embroidery stitches around, but they can also be used as a decorative addition to your garments.
There are two ways to sew these X-shaped stitches, with a space or without a space.
For a cross stitch with space between the X's:
- Mark two parallel lines on your fabric.
- Bring your needle up from the top line, and insert it diagonally into the second line.
- Then bring your needle up on the second line, directly across from your first stitch.
- Bring this diagonally to the first line, forming an X shape.
- Bring your needle back up on the first line, a stitch length away from the first X, and repeat the steps.
To sew a cross stitch with no spaces:
- Start from the top line, and sew diagonally to the second line.
- Bring your needle back up on the first line, a stitch length away from the first stitch, and sew diagonally to the second line again.
- Once you reach the end of your pattern, do the same thing in reverse — creating an X-shaped stitch.
Tips for Sewing By Hand
- Keep Your Thread Short - Longer threads tend to get tangled up as you sew. As a rule of thumb, keep your thread around 18" - 24" long. Of course, it can be shorter or longer depending on how much thread you need.
- Mark Your Fabric - Marking your fabric ensures your stitches are straight and even. You can mark straight lines to know where the seam should be. You can also measure and create vertical marks when sewing seams that go up and down a straight line.
- Avoid Pulling Too Tight - When pulling thread, you generally don't want to pull too tightly. This causes your fabric to gather. Pull just enough that the fabric is secure, but not squeeze by the thread.
- Go Slow - You're not a sewing machine, so don't try to sew as quickly as one! Not only does going quickly cause mistakes, but slowly hand sewing can also be very therapeutic. If you need to get something done quickly, then stash out your sewing machine.
- Practice, Practice, Practice - Your hands are going to feel tired the first time you try hand sewing. Or, you might find that your seams aren't straight. There are plenty of small mistakes you'll run into when you first start, but if you keep practicing, you'll eventually smooth all of these out.
Ready to Start Hand Sewing?
Hand sewing is a wonderful skill to have.
Not only can you patch up tears or make small fixes on your clothes quickly, but you can also add buttons or lovely decorative features to anything you wear.
So don't be afraid, pick a simple project and get practicing!
Now, if you'd like to learn other ways you can take your sewing skills to the next level, why not check out our free workshop?
In it, we'll go over five secret techniques that you can use to transform your pieces from looking homemade to looking like something straight out of a designer's wardrobe.
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