One of the cleanest ways to finish your hems is by using a blind hem stitch.
Not only does this remove raw edges and prevent fraying, but blind hems are so clean, you won't see any thread in your finished garment either!
However, sewing a blind hem stitch can be tricky.
If you get it wrong, not only will your hem look loose or uneven, but it can actually come undone because of how thin the stitches are.
That's why in this article, we'll show you the proper way to fold and sew a blind hem stitch.
We'll show you how to do this by hand and by machine, so that you can sew beautiful and invisible hems every time.
Let's dive in.
What is a Blind Hem Stitch and Why Use It?
A blind hem stitch is a combination of a straight stitch with a zigzag stitch at even intervals (typically 1 zigzag stitch for every 2-3 straight stitches).
These stitches are used to sew hems with stitches that are virtually invisible from the outside of the garment.
A blind hem, which is also called an invisible hem, is a great technique to use to give your clothes a clean and professional look.
How to Sew a Blind Hem by Hand
What You Need to Sew an Invisible Stitch Hem by Hand
To sew a blind stitch by hand, you'll only need three items:
- Needle and thread (use thread that's the same color as your fabric)
- Iron
- Scissors
Step #1: Fold Twice to Create a "Tunnel"
- Fold the end of your fabric about ¼ - 1" (depending on how big you want your hem to be) with the wrong sides facing each other.
- Press the fold down with an iron.
- Fold again so that the raw edge of the fabric is enclosed within the folds.
- Press one more time.
When sewing a blind hem by hand, it's critical to fold your fabric twice. You'll use the little "tunnel" created by these folds to hold the thread in place.
Keep in mind that this is for hand sewing blind hems only. If you're using a sewing machine, you'll use a different folding technique.
Step #2: Sew a Blind Hem Stitch!
- Thread your needle and create a small knot on the end.
- Stick your needle into the fold so the knot hides inside the "tunnel," and bring the needle out through the top of the fold so the thread is coming out where you can see it.
- Bring your needle slightly above the fold, and create a tiny stitch.
You'll only want to grab a couple of threads with your needle here. This is the only part of the thread that'll show on the outside of your finished garment, so keep it as small as you can.
- Insert your needle back into the fold in the same spot where the thread came out.
- Run your needle through the "tunnel" about ¼" - ½" before bringing it out to make the next tiny stitch.
Step #3: Finish
- Repeat step 2 until you reach the end of your fabric.
- Once you reach the end, instead of inserting the needle back into the fold, tie a knot by creating a loop with your thread and inserting your needle through it.
- Create another knot by repeating the step above for extra strength.
- Finish by cutting your thread.
And that's how to sew a blind hem stitch by hand!
How to Sew a Blind Hem Stitch With a Sewing Machine
What You Need to Sew an Invisible Stitch Hem With a Sewing Machine
The tools you'll need to sew a blind hem with a machine are quite different from sewing it by hand. You'll need:
- A sewing machine
- A blind hem presser foot (most sewing machines come with this accessory. If you don't have one, you can easily purchase one from any sewing supply store.
- Fabric pins
- Iron
- Scissors
Step #1: Finish Raw Edges
Before you begin, finish the raw edges of your fabric by using a serger or a zigzag stitch.
This is important because you'll be sewing quite close to the edge, and fraying edges can easily cause your stitches to come undone.
Step #2: Use This Special Folding Technique
Folding your fabric properly is critical when sewing a blind hem with a sewing machine, so follow these steps very carefully:
- Fold the end of your fabric about 1" (depending on how big you want your hem to be) with the wrong sides facing each other.
- Press the hem with your iron.
- With the fabric lying flat, fold the hem back toward the outside of the fabric.
- Leave about ¼" - ⅜" of the hem edge sticking out beyond the fold.
If you do this properly, you should have a small edge of the hem poking out, while most of the hem is folded under like a sandwich.
- Press with an iron again.
- Pin the fold in place so it doesn't open as you sew.
Step #3: Set Your Sewing Machine
- Insert your blind hem presser foot into your machine.
- Change your stitch settings to the blind hem stitch.
Most sewing machines have a blind hem stitch setting available.
In most machines, the symbol is straight stitches with occasional zigzag stitches, something like this: _/\__/\__/\_
If you're using a digital sewing machine, check your user's manual to find the correct code for this stitch.
Step #4: Sew!
- Position your needle. The straight stitches should go on the hem allowance, while the zigzag stitch should sew the hem allowance to the fold.
You can follow the markings on your blind hem stitch foot for positioning.
- Sew slowly until you reach the end.
- Cut your thread and you're done!
Before sewing on your garment, test your machine's settings on scrap fabric first.
Create an identical fold using scrap fabric, and test your machine's stitch length and zigzag stitch width.
Common Problems While Sewing Blind Hems
Needle Catches Too Much Fabric
If your needle is catching too much fabric in the fold, this might not look super clean in your finished garment.
When this happens, try decreasing your stitch width slightly.
Needle Misses The Fold
If your zigzag stitches aren't catching the fold's fabric, this usually means your stitch is too narrow.
To fix, simply increase your stitch width slightly. Be careful not to add too much, since your needle will end up catching too much fabric.
Play around with scrap fabric to find the perfect stitch width for your project.
Stitches Are Weak
If you find that your stitches are too weak for your fabric, try decreasing the stitch length.
Shorter stitch lengths are more durable and are great for lightweight fabrics. However, keep in mind that the shorter your stitch length, the more visible your stitches will be on the finished garment.
Too Many Stitches Visible
If there are too many stitches visible on your finished garment, you can try slightly increasing the stitch length to spread the stitches out.
Keep in mind that longer stitch lengths are less durable than shorter stitch lengths.
As always, play around with a scrap fabric to find the perfect stitch settings before sewing a blind hem stitch into your garment!
Fabric Unraveling
Some people think that because the raw edges will be hidden in the folds, they don't need to finish it.
This is a mistake, because your stitches are going to be quite close to the raw edges. If there's any fraying, your stitches can easily come undone.
That's why it's important to either sew a zigzag stitch or use a serger to clean up your raw edges before starting.
Ready to Sew Blind Hems?
Sewing a blind hem might seem like a tedious task to some.
After all, what's wrong with some stitches showing?
But once you're finished sewing your first blind hem, you'll find that it makes your sewing projects crisp. They'll just look that much cleaner than normal stitches.
So go ahead and give it a try.
And when you're finished, you'll feel a tremendous amount of pride knowing that you did something extra just to make your clothes look even better.
But don't stop there!
If you'd like to learn the methods that separate clothes that look homemade from the ones that have a designer finish, then you'll love our free workshop.
In it, we'll go over five secret techniques you can use to make your garments super clean and professional.
And best of all?
You won't need any special equipment to learn these.
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