Picture this:

You're almost finished with your sewing project, but there's just one scary detail left that's putting you off…

A zipper.

After teaching thousands of sewists, we've noticed that zippers are one of the most intimidating details for beginners.

However, with the right technique and some practice, you'll find that sewing in a zipper isn't nearly as bad as you think.

That's why in this quick guide, we'll go over how to sew a zipper, the different types of zippers you can choose from, and how to fix common problems when working with zippers.

With clear instructions and the right tools, you'll be sewing zippers left and right in no time. 

How to Sew a Standard Zipper

Step 1: Gather Your Essential Tools for Zipper Installation

Aside from your basic sewing tools like a sewing machine, fabric, and, of course, a zipper, you'll also want:

• A zipper foot - a sewing machine presser foot that's designed specifically for sewing zippers. Unlike all-around presser feet, zipper feet are more narrow, allowing you to sew very close to the zipper. You can also adjust some zipper feet so you can sew close to the zipper on the left side or right side.

• Thread that matches or compliments the color of your fabric. Zipper seams often go to the right side of the fabric, so they are visible in the finished piece. If the color mismatches your fabric, it can look off when it's time to wear your garment.

• A seam ripper - if you're adding a zipper to fabric that's already sewn shut, you'll need a seam ripper to open it up to insert the zipper.

• Fusible interfacing (optional) - If you're sewing on a lighter fabric, fusible interfacing will add strength to the zipper area so you can zip and unzip without damaging the garment. 

Step 2: Prepare Your Fabric

Before getting to your zipper, there are a few steps you need to take to prepare your fabric:

• Finish raw edges by using a serger or a zigzag stitch. This ensures that the fabric doesn't unravel as you sew in the zipper.

• Mark the fabric where you want to insert your zipper. You can do this by holding the zipper on the fabric and using chalk to mark the top and the bottom of the zipper.

• Add fusible interfacing in the area where the zipper will go.

• Sew your fabric up to the bottom marking of where the zipper will go. To do this, place your two pieces of fabric together with the right side in and sew using a straight stitch.

• Press open the seam with an around. You'll also want to press the seam area where you'll insert your zipper.

Baste the top of your fabric to hold the two pieces together. This is a temporary stitch that you will remove later, so keep it simple but strong enough to prevent the fabric from spreading open as you sew.

Step 3: Sew Your Zipper

There are several ways to sew a zipper. One of the easiest ways to do this is by:

1. Inserting Your Zipper - Insert your zipper face-down in between the open seams on the wrong side of your fabric. Then, use pins to hold it in place.

If you want to ensure the zipper won't move around, you can also use a basting stitch to hold the zipper in place. This way, you can be sure it'll stay exactly where you want it.

2. Sewing First Side - Start by sewing from the top left corner of the zipper and make your way down to the bottom. Make sure to pull the zipper slider out of the way as you sew so that you don't have to work around it.

You may want to start with a small backstitch to prevent unraveling. Also, don't try to sew around the zipper since this can create uneven stitches, which not only look bad but can give you an uneven zipper when finished.

3. Pivoting and Sewing the Bottom - Once you reach the bottom, carefully pivot your fabric 90 degrees and sew across the zipper to the other side.

If you're not sure how to pivot, use the sewing machine's hand wheel to ensure the needle stays down in the fabric. Once the needle is secured in place, raise the presser foot, then rotate the fabric at a right angle to continue sewing in the new direction.

4. Pivoting and Sewing the Other Side - Then, pivot your fabric again and slowly sew up the right side of the zipper. Once you get to the top, end with a simple backstitch and cut your thread, and you're done!

Make sure to clean up by cutting any loose threads.

If you'd like to see this in action, check out this video: 

Understanding Zipper Types

If you have another type of zipper, the steps to sew it in will look slightly different.

Here are some of the most common types of zippers:

Standard Zippers

Standard zippers are the kind of zippers you see everywhere, from bags to clothes. They come in metal (for more strength and durability) or in plastic (for a lightweight and colorful option).

Standard zippers come in many lengths, so pick one that fits your needs. Or, if your zipper is too long, you can always cut it where you need. Simply measure your desired length, sew stitches across the zipper, and cut with scissors. If you have a metal zipper, you may need to use pliers to remove the zipper teeth. 

Invisible Zippers 

Invisible zippers are zippers that hide underneath the fabric of your clothing. Unlike standard zippers, the zipper teeth hide underneath the zipper tape, making them virtually invisible. These zippers give a polished and more professional look, which makes them great for dresses, skirts, and other more formal garments.

To sew an invisible zipper, you can follow the same steps as for a standard zipper. However, for a clean finish, you'll want to sew as close to the zipper teeth as you can.

Check out our full guide to sewing invisible zippers here. 

Separating Zippers​

A separating zipper is a zipper that you can completely separate and put back together. These are most common in jackets, coats, and hoodies.

Separating zippers go from the top all the way to the bottom of your garment, so you'll sew one side first and move to the other without having to pivot and sew across. Besides that, there's no real difference between sewing a separating zipper and a standard zipper. 

Specialty Zippers

There are several specialty zippers that you can use for various applications:

• Water-resistant zippers for outdoor wear and other wet applications prevent rusting.

• Two-way zippers for jackets or sleeping bags allow you to open either the top or the bottom section while keeping the other closed.

• Decorative zippers allow you to add style and flare to your skirts, dresses, or other artsy pieces of clothing.

• Air-tight zippers prevent anything from entering through the zipper, making them perfect for pieces like hazmat suits.

• Locking zippers for bags make them difficult for thieves to open and are great for traveling.

You get the point. There are countless specialty zippers that you can choose from for your own unique applications. 

Common Zipper Problems and Solutions

Zipper Puckering

One common problem beginner sewists run into while sewing zippers is one side of the fabric puckering, or unwanted ripples or wrinkles along the seam line.

To prevent this, don't rush while sewing. Make sure to hold the zipper tape down firmly as you sew it into the fabric.

If that isn't working, you can also hand-baste the zipper to the fabric. Take a needle and thread and sew the zipper to the fabric using long stitches. This way, you can be sure that the fabric won't move around as you use your machine to apply the main stitches. 

Uneven Zipper Sides

Uneven zipper sides happen when the fabric moves while you're sewing or if you mark your fabric inaccurately.

To fix this, always double-check before you mark or sew. Taking a few extra seconds to make sure everything is straight will save you a couple of minutes of having to rip the seams and start over.

Using pins to hold the zipper tape to the fabric as you sew should prevent uneven zipper sides while sewing, but you can also hand-baste first to give it an even stronger hold. 

Difficulty Zipping​

If you're struggling to close your zipper, chances are you sew too close to the zipper teeth.

You should sew as close to the teeth for invisible zippers, but for standard ones, it's best to leave a small gap between the stitch and the teeth. Most zipper tapes will have a stitch line that you can use as a guide.

If you use the stitch line but it's still too close, then add a tiny gap of seam allowance, just enough to let your zipper slider through with no problems. 

The Next Step: Practice! 

Sewing zippers can be tricky at first, but once you've sewn a couple, you'll find that you won't have to think too hard whenever you encounter zippers again.

So grab a piece of scrap fabric, get a good zipper, and start practicing.

Your zipper skills will improve with every project you do, so don't wait to get started.

And if you'd like to get your hands on one of our decorative zippers, check out our collection here.