Sewing your own clothes can be incredibly rewarding.
But when you take a step further and tailor them to fit perfectly—that's next-level satisfaction.
But here's the thing.
Pattern fitting is NOT easy.
It takes time, patience, and a lot of practice.
That's why, in this article, we'll go over everything you need to know before fitting your first pattern — from the equipment you need to how to test your patterns.
Before We Begin: What Is Pattern Fitting?
In a nutshell, pattern fitting is when you adjust a pattern to custom-fit your body.
A sewing pattern is essentially a set of paper templates that guide you in creating a garment. Usually, once you pick the correct size, the finished piece will fit you as expected.
However, while following a generic pattern will give you wearable clothes, they won't fit your body perfectly.
That's where pattern fitting comes in.
Pattern fitting is adjusting the details of a pattern to give the best fit for you.
How To Adjust Patterns To Fit You Perfectly in 5 Steps
Step #1: Gather The Essential Tools for Pattern Fitting
To start pattern fitting, you'll need:
- Tape Measure - For measuring yourself and the pattern. We like to recommend this specific tape measure that's reversible.
- Ruler - Rulers can be easier to use when adjusting your pattern. I recommend using a longer (about 18 inches) transparent ruler so that you can see the lines underneath.
- Red Pencil - To differentiate your new markings from the original pattern, you should use a different-colored pencil.
- Removable Tape - So you won't damage the pattern when you remove the tape.
- Pattern Tracing Paper - We've always used medical exam paper that you can get from medical supply stores (we also have some tracing paper in our shop). This is a great weight and transparency for doing pattern work.
With those five simple tools, you can start adjusting your patterns.
Step #2: Get Accurate Body Measurements
One of the MOST important parts of pattern fitting is getting accurate body measurements. Linda has a great Craftsy class called Fitting Solo that is a great reference for measuring yourself, noting great fit for tops and bottoms.
If you want clothes to fit, you'll need your full bust measurement for tops and your hip measurement for bottoms.
But if you want it to custom-fit perfectly, you'll need to measure a few more things.
For tops, you'll want to measure:
- High bust circumference
- Full bust circumference
- Distance between bust points
- Distance from shoulder/neck point to bust point
- Waist circumference
- Shoulder length
- Upper arm circumference
- Sleeve length
- Back width
- Back length to waist
For bottoms, be sure to measure:
- Waist circumference
- High hip circumference
- Distance from waist
- Full hip circumference
- Distance from waist
- Stride (crotch length) plus 1-2 inches
- Length from waist to floor minus 1 inch
If you'd like full instructions on measuring these, you can check out our How to Measure Yourself Guide here.
Step #3: Adjust Your Pattern
Once you have your body measurements, it's time to compare it with your pattern.
After that, you'll take your pattern tracing paper and draw up a new and adjusted pattern for yourself.
You'll want to give your measurements some inches of ease so your clothes won't be too tight.
Here's a quick chart you can use for tops:
And for pants:
Step #4: Test Your Fitted Pattern
A mistake many people make is immediately using their new pattern right after making adjustments.
Don't do this. You'll want to test your new custom-fitted pattern first.
One way to do this is to pin-fit your pattern. Take your adjusted pattern and pin it together at the shoulders and side seams. This will allow you to see if your pattern fits.
Another great option is to use muslin fabric as a test. Muslin is relatively cheap and is the best way to test your fitted pattern.
So, sew together your piece using muslin and try it on. This will allow you to see exactly how your pattern will fit.
Muslin fabric also allows you to adjust your pattern quickly, see if it works, and play around with some details.
Also, don't be afraid to make markings on your muslin where adjustments are needed. You'll want to note any changes you make to your muslin. This way, you can copy it to your pattern paper and your final garment.
Step #5: Sew Your Garment
After doing tests on muslin fabric and making your final adjustments, it's finally time to sew.
So take your fitted pattern, place it on your fabric, and cut away.
Test Your Skills: Easy Patterns to Practice Fitting
Want to practice your skills?
The best way to do this is to start with a simple pattern. Simple patterns allow you to adjust it to your body without worrying too much about mistakes. Generally speaking, complicated patterns are more challenging to custom-fit, so start simple.
Here are some great beginner-friendly patterns you can use to practice altering:
- Eureka Top—The Eureka Top is one of our most straightforward patterns. Because it's so simple, we always recommend it to first-time sewers. However, it also makes a great first project for pattern fitting. The original pattern is quite loose, so adjusting it to fit your body will improve its shape and appearance.
- Hudson Pants - Want to sew pants? The Hudson Pants is a great pattern to test your fitting skills. Once again, the default design of this pattern is relatively loose-fitting, so there's plenty of room for you to tighten it to fit.
- eJacket—Learning to fit sleeves can be tricky. That's why I recommend practicing your fitting skills with this eJacket. It's a simple design with few details, so it works well for practicing custom-fitting sleeves.
- eDress - Looking for a bit more of a challenge? Try the eDress. Dresses are generally more challenging than other garments because you need to adjust the top and bottom. However, if you pull this off, you'll have a beautiful dress that fits you perfectly.
Conclusion
Practice makes perfect.
Always remember that whenever it comes to sewing, or, more specifically, fitting patterns.
It won't be perfect on your first attempt, but don't let this discourage you from trying.
Instead, keep honing your skills; before you know it, you'll be sewing garments with the perfect fit every time.
So go ahead.
Follow the steps above, and try fitting your first pattern today.
Want to learn more about fitting patterns? Check out our Fashion Fitting Workbook, or our Fashion Fitting Encyclopedia to learn more.