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threadWEAR 301

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Stafford Sew Along Part Three: Sewing the Front


Welcome to the Stafford Sew Along Part Three! Today we will be sewing the front of the jacket. Be sure to read through parts one and two of the Sew Along, where we discuss cutting and marking, as well as topstitching tips. If you have already done so, then let's get sewing!  

Place the Front and Middle Front pieces right sides together and stitch. Finish the seam. To finish my seams, I will be serging them with a three-thread stitch formation.  

​The fabric that I am using for the Stafford is a stable lightweight chambray. If I were using a fabric that were less stable, with a tendency to stretch or torque when topstitching, I would use Fusi-Web to secure the seam allowance to the wrong side of the fabric before topstitching. To do that, place a strip of Fusi-Web, paper side up, right next to the seam allowance on the Middle Front piece. Press along the Fusi-Web to secure. When it has adhered to the fabric, carefully pull off the paper strip, revealing a temporary line of glue.

 Pressing from the right side, secure the the seam allowance towards the Middle Front. In the image below of the wrong side of the pattern piece, you can see how flat the seam allowance lies on the Middle Front because it is fused with the Fusi-Web. Now, when I topstitch, I won't have to worry about any stretching or shifting of the seam allowance. 

​Hopefully you have already read through the Stafford Sew Along Part Two: Topstitching Tips, if not, take a look before proceeding. Once you have perfected your topstitching technique, you will topstitch along the Middle Front piece ¼" from the seam line. You always want to stitch with the right side up starting at the top and stitching to the bottom. 

Place Side Front to Middle Front with right sides together. Stitch and finish the seam in the same manner you used previously. 

 If using Fusi-Web, adhere it along the seam line of the Middle Front, and press the seam allowance. 

​Topstitch along the right side,  ¼" from the seam line.

Place the two Flaps right sides together. Use a chalk marker to trace the stitching line. Stitch.

Trim and grade the seams to ⅜". Place the Flap over the flat rail of a point presser or tailor board and press the seams open.

At the corners, press each seam allowance to one side along the seam line stitching, stacking the seam allowances on top of one another for about 1" from each corner. 

Turn the Flap to the right side and press. Use a point turner to neaten the corner, if necessary. Topstitch ¼" from the edges. Sew the buttonhole on each Flap as marked. DO NOT CUT THE BUTTONHOLE OPEN! 

With the wrong side of the Flap to the right side of the Front, raw edges together and matching dots, machine baste the Flap to the Front.

Staystitch the neck edge of front yoke. 

With right sides together, sew the Front Yoke to the Front, matching Flap dots. Finish seam. 

Press the finished seam allowance towards the Front Yoke. Secure with Fusi-Web if needed. Topstitch ¼" from the seam allowance.

Use the 2¼" and 1⅝" pressing templates you made in the Stafford Sew Along Part One post to make a 1⅝"-wide finished bottom hem. Press, but do not stitch at this time!

Use the  2⅞" and 2¼" pressing templates you made in the Stafford Sew Along Part One post to make a 2¼"-wide center front hem. Press, but do not stitch! 

Turn the front hem back on itself along the front foldline, matching the top dots. At the top, sew from the front fold to the dot. Clip the seam allowance to the dot and trim.

At the bottom, use a chalk marker to mark a line across the hem turnback 2¼" from the bottom edge and even with the finished hemline. Stitch. 

Trim completely across the turnback. Also trim the hem allowance below the turnback, leaving at least 1/4" within the turnback area. Press the seam open. Turn right side out and press.

Use a chalk marker to draw two parallel lines: ¼" from the center front, and 2¼" from the center front. Be sure to pivot the ¼" line along the neckline, stopping at the  dot. Topstitch.

Thanks for joining the Stafford Sew Along Part Three: Sewing the front. If you haven't be sure to check out Part One: Cutting and Marking, and Part Two: Topstitching Tips. If you find yourself in need of tweaking the pattern to fit you better, you might check out Linda's Craftsy class Fitting Solo: From Measurement to Muslin.

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Stafford Sew Along Part Two: Topstitching Tips
Stafford Sew Along Part One: Cutting and Marking