Today we start sewing the Frankie Shirt! If you are just joining in on the Sew Along, check out our previous post with cutting, marking and technique tips for the project. If you have already read through the post, let's get started by making the front of the shirt.
Our first step is to staystitch the front neck edge of Front/Side Back (1). Staystitching acts as a guideline for clipping the seam allowance to join a curved edge to another edge, in this case the collar, as well as to prevent stretching. Instead of using a basting length for the staystitch line, Linda recommends the regular machine-stitch length along or just a hair inside the ⅝" seam allowance line.
Place the Front/Side Back piece right sides together, aligning the side seam dart markings on both sides. Pin and stitch. Make sure you end with needle exactly on the bottom most dot. Either backstitch along the dart fold or leave long tails to tie off.
When the dart is sewn, finish the raw edge portion of the dart using 3-thread overlock. If you don't have a serger, I recommend pinking the remaining raw edges. Press the dart towards the Back. When pressing a curved area such as a dart, place the dart over a tailor's ham with the right side of the fabric up so you are pressing the dart one direction from the right side of the garment.
For the next step, you are going to use the Pressing with Templates technique that I outlined in the previous Sew Along post. Use your 1"-wide template to press the front edge to the wrong side.
Fold the front edge another 1" to the wrong side. This will form a double fold 1"-wide hem. Note: Depending on the weight and stability of your fabric, you may want to consider applying fusible interfacing either along the entire hem or just behind the button and buttonhole placement markings.
If you are working with a fabric that has a tendency to pull, or torque when stitching, I recommend adhering this with a line of Fusi-Web. which is our famous ultrasheer ½"-wide fusible web. This will stabilize the fabric for the stitching. When you have secured the hem with Fusi-Web or with pins, edgestitch along the folded edge. If you have an edgestitch foot, this will help you get an even line of stitching.
Place your Front/Side Back piece right side up. Use a ruler to mark ¾" above the dot along the side back vent. Then, using your preferred finishing technique, finish the edge of the vent from that mark to the bottom.
Join us for the next chapter of the Frankie Sew Along as we construct the back of the garment. If you have any questions about the project, email betsy@sewingworkshop, or post your question on our Facebook Group. And don't miss the other posts in the Sew Along.
Frankie Sew Along Part One: Measuring & Alterations