threadWEAR 301

Underlining/Lining the Tremont Jacket

Tuesday, 15 November 2022

In this hybrid underlining/lining method, the jacket is first constructed without completing the mitered corners, hems and neck facing. The underlining pieces are constructed separately in the same manner without edge finishing.

Once each jacket is sewn together, the two are then basted together as one jacket and the hems and neck facing are completed over the underlining.

Use the jacket pattern in its original form to cut out the outer jacket.

PATTERN WORK FOR LINING

When underlining the Tremont Jacket, the underlining fabric is cut out using the original pattern pieces for the outer jacket minus the bottom hem allowances and an adjustment at the center fronts.

Right Front and Left Front*

1. On Right Front and Left Front, mark a point ⅝" from the shoulder/neck dot towards center front of.
2. Draw a line parallel to the Center Front Foldline from this new point to bottom of Fronts. This is the underlining cutting line
3. Draw a line to extend the shoulder cutting line to the new cutting line from Step 2.

4. Measure 1⅝" from bottom edge to establish the hem foldline. Use this marked hem foldline at the underlining cutting line.

Back

5. Repeat Step 4 for the underlining cutting line.

Sleeves

Measure and mark a line 6½" up from bottom of Sleeve. This is the underlining cutting line.

*Important!
If you are using a lining fabric that has a print or a definite right side, remember to flip the right and left front pattern pieces when cutting out.

UNDERLINING THE JACKET

Outer jacket

1. Follow the general order of construction as printed in the guide sheet.
2. Delete the following steps:

No need to FINISH any seam allowances unless the fabric frays badly.
Press seams open.
Press full hem allowances only. Do not press hem turndowns.
Do not miter the corners. Press the vent hem allowances first and then press the
bottom hems on top of the side allowances.
Do not topstitch front, bottom and sleeve hems.
Do not slipstitch the back neck self facing.
Do not edgestitch seams.

3. See guide sheet for details.

Lining

1. Sew the shoulder seams, insert the Sleeves and sew the side/sleeve seams to the vent opening dots.

Finishing

1. Pin the outer jacket and the lining jacket with wrong sides together.
2. Using silk thread, hand baste the two jackets together around the edges.
3. Re-press the hems in place and slipstitch.
4. Fold the neck facing in place and slipstitch the neck along the seamline.