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West End Pants with Deep Hems


We love a pleated pants moment, and Linda showed us a fabulous version of this using our West End pants pattern.

The West End Pants are a wide legged pant, but by making a couple of simple changes to the pattern, you can make these pants even more exaggerated in width. Then add deep soft pleats in the front, patch pockets in the back, and deep hems and you have elevated this pants style to an avant grade designer look. 

It's all about pants these days, and we can't seem to get enough of the details we are seeing from brand who are enhancing their wide-leg pant looks. We love the West End pants for so many reasons, and these simple changes can be made to take your own wide-leg pants to the next level. These pants have a front pleat on each leg, patch pockets in the back, and very deep hems.  Take a look at Linda in this fabulous look (and a fantastic color combo with a Eureka Top). 

Below is a pair of Gilda Midani pants with similar details. Follow along to see how you can make your own swingy pair of pants in Linda's favorite fabric: Viscose linen. 

Begin with your starting size of the West End Pants. Use that size to cut out the Back. Use one size larger to work with the Front. 

Determine how long you want the pants and then add 6" plus ⅝" to the length on the Front and Back. This will allow for a 6" hem allowance with ⅝" to turn under for a nicely finished hem. Fold the hem along the finished hem length and fold the pattern up to cut the side seam profiles so it will fit properly when turned up in fabric. 

To determine the pleat placement, start by temporarily taping the Pocket piece on the Front to fill in the space of the Pocket opening. Then find the center of the leg between seams and mark. Draw a vertical line on this center line and mark 3" down. This is how far the pleat will be sewn. Measure over 2" from the center mark towards the center front and mark. This is the depth of the pleat. 

Make a pattern piece for the Pockets. Draw a rectangle that is 8 3/4" wide X 11 ¼". This includes 5/8" seam allowances all around and a 2" top hem with a 5/8" turndown. You will cut out two Pockets. 

When making the pants, the top of the Pockets are placed on the Back 4 ¾" down from the waist seam. On a size small, the edge of the Pockets are place 1" from the side seam. This measurement may vary depending on your size. 

Recalculate the length of the Waistband since you used two different sizes for the pants and added pleats.

Order of Construction:

  1. Follow the guide sheet to install the side seam Pockets.
  2. Form the front pleats. Start at the top and sew each pleat down 3". Press towards the center front and baste at the waistband to hold in place.
  3. Prepare the back pockets and sew them to each Back.
  4. Continue following the guide sheet to construct the pants using the new hem width.

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