Zona Jacket Adaptation

The inspiration for this jacket came from an OSKA advertisement. It was a yellow felled-wool jacket that had all the "bones" of our Zona Jacket. I love to create garments with boucle nylon and wool fabric using lapped seams and raw edge techniques.

OSKA inspiration

We have a fantastic tutorial from our Sew Confident! series called Raw Edge Construction available for purchase. If you are a member of Sew Confident! 2013, you already have it! It explains in more detail some of the construction steps for this technique. It also provides several great photos of raw edge construction for inspiration on other ways to incorporate the look in your garments.

Pattern Work

Pattern work: All pattern pieces are shown in size Medium. Using the raw edge lapped seam technique, seam allowances are only added to the under lapped portion of the seam. If using traditional garment construction techniques, add seam allowances to each piece.

Pattern Pieces #1, #2, #14, #9 and #10 are used.

Notions needed:

RIGHT FRONT #1

Mark 12 1/4 inches up from lower front edge. Mark 9 inches in from lower front edge. Using a curved tool, draw a curved line from mark to mark. Cut on curved line. Add 5/8 inch seam allowance to original right front piece. Using the lapped seam technique, the curved wedge will be lapped over the right front so no additional seam allowance is required on the curved piece.

LEFT FRONT #2

Mark 6 3/4 inches up from lower edge. Draw line across and cut.

BACK #14

Mark 10 inches up from lower edge. Draw line perpendicular to grain line and cut.

Remove seam allowance at side seam on left front wedge. Tape left front wedge to 5/8" seam allowance on section removed from back. This will become a single pattern piece.

Extend a line 3" straight up from left front edge on lower peplum pattern piece. Extend line 2" up following the angle of the side seam. Draw a gradual curve connecting the two lines and continuing to meet the right side seam.

Add seam allowances to lower edge of original left back and back.

SLEEVE #9 and #10

No adjustments will be made to the pattern pieces before cutting fabric. Cut as the pattern indicates.

Seams

Remove seam allowance from one seam. Chalk seam allowance on opposite seam. Use double-sided basting tape or pins to hold fabrics together until stitching. Align side with no seam allowance against the chalk line on remaining seam allowance. Stitch very close to cut edge. REMOVE TAPE. Stitch again about 3/8" from first stitching.

Finished seam details

Darts

Cut out the inside of the dart. Insert a larger piece of fabric in back of dart, stitch very close to inside cut edge on one side of dart. With needle down into fabric, pivot and abut opposite edge of dart up against each other and continue stitching very close to cut edge. Do another row of stitches 1/4 to 3/8" away. Trim excess fabric close to dart facing on wrong side.

Finished bust dart

Hems

Stitch 3/8" from raw edge. Stitch another row 1/4" to 3/8" from first stitching. Trim close to first row of stitches.

Construction

RIGHT FRONT: Stitch dart. Lap lower curved wedge over right front. (Seam allowance on lower curved wedge has been adjusted in the pattern work.)

LEFT FRONT: Stitch dart. Stitch fronts together at back neck seam.

SHOULDER SEAMS: Stitch front to back at shoulder seams. Seam allowances need to be removed from from fronts and lapped over the back.

BACK NECK SEAM: Lap neck over back and stitch.

LEFT SIDE SEAM: Stitch left front to back at side seam. We did not remove the seam allowance at side seam on left front in the pattern work so you will need to do that now. Lap left front over left back and stitch.

LOWER PEPLUM: Lap lower peplum over back and side and stitch.

RIGHT SIDE SEAM: Lap front over back at right side seam.

SLEEVES: Lap UPPER SLEEVE over UNDERSLEEVE and stitch. The first seam will be easy as the sleeve is still flat. The second seam will be more difficult. Do the taping together on a sleeve board and pin in intervals to hold more securely. Turn the sleeve inside out. Beginning at the top of the sleeve do first line of stitching, inching the way to the bottom as the sleeve narrows. Or, just stitch the seam in the back of the sleeve the traditional way. The constructed sleeve is stitched in the jacket with traditional right sides together seam. Trim seam to 3/8" and press towards sleeve.

HEMS: Stitch 3/8" from raw edge. Stitch another row 1/4" to 3/8" from first stitching. Trim close to first row of stitching.

BUTTONS AND BUTTONHOLES: Stitch machine buttonholes. Stitch buttons.