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Berwick St. Tunic Sew Along Part Five: Attaching the Sleeves


Welcome back to the Berwick St. Tunic Sew Along. Today we are going to create and attach the sleeves. Let's get sewing!

To begin, sew a line of basting stitches along the seamline of the Sleeve (6) between the front and the back notches. 

Then, staystitch the vent along the opening lines. Be sure to take a stitch across the point (where the dot is). After stitching, cut through the center of the vent opening to the dot.  

Fold the Sleeve Placket (7) in half lengthwise and then press.  

Place the folded Sleeve Placket to the WRONG side of the vent opening. Open the vent wide and position the staystitching line ʺ from the raw edges of the Sleeve Placket. It might help you to use a chalk mark and draw a line along the ⅜ʺ line of the Sleeve Placket so you have a visual for placement. Sew evenly from the outside edge of the Placket and just to the left of your previous staystitching. Trim the seam to ⅛ʺ. Press the seam towards the Placket. Trim the excess ends of the Placket. 

Now, turn the folded edge of the Sleeve Placket to the right side of the Sleeve. It will just cover the previous stitching. Sew close to the folded edge, pivoting at the dot. You will need to re-position the opening and the Placket as you sew in order to sew a straight line. 

On the inside of the Sleeve, fold the Placket at the dot. Sew at a 45° angle from the top of the Placket fold, making sure to start right at the dot. Again, it might help to mark this line before you stitch. 

On the outside of the vent closest to the center of the Sleeve, turn the Placket to the wrong side and baste along the bottom. Press. With right sides together, sew the Sleeve together at the underarm seam. Finish the seam together and press it towards the vent opening.

Press the Sleeve Band (8) in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Open the Band and press ½ʺ​ to the wrong side along one long edge. 

Sew the Sleeve Band to the bottom of the Sleeve, matching the dot to the sleeve seam and placing right sides together. Extend the Sleeve Band ⅝ʺ beyond the finished openings of the vent. Trim the seam and press it towards the Sleeve Band. 

Fold the ends of the Sleeve Band right sides together, keeping the turndown in place. Stitch and trim the seam. Fold the Sleeve Band to the right side, overlapping the seam by ⅛ʺ. 

On the right side of the Sleeve Band, stitch in the ditch along the seamline, catching the band on the inside. 

To attach the sleeve to the garment, adjust the ease on the Sleeve cap by drawing the bobbin thread of the basting stitch. Place right sides together matching the dot to the shoulder seam, front and back notches and Sleeve seam to the side seam. Stitch the Sleeve to the garment. 

Reinforce the underam section by stitching again just inside the previous stitching between the front and back notches. Finish the seam and press it towards the sleeve. 

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