How to Nail the Correct Bust Dart Position Every Time

Staring at a garment with misplaced bust darts is every sewist's nightmare.

You've spent hours selecting fabric, cutting pattern pieces, and meticulously stitching seams—only to try on your creation and discover those darts are pointing in awkward directions, creating unflattering pulls, or simply sitting in the wrong place entirely.

The truth is, even the most beautiful fabric and perfect stitching can't salvage a garment with poorly positioned bust darts.

But here's the good news: with the right measurement techniques and a few simple steps, you can nail your bust dart position before you even cut your fabric. 

How to Make Sure Your Bust Dart Position Is Correct Before You Cut

Step 1: Take Accurate Bust Measurements

Before adjusting any pattern, you need to know your exact measurements. Wear comfortable undergarments similar to what you'll wear with the finished garment.

1. First, measure your full bust circumference by wrapping the tape measure around the fullest part of your bust. Make sure the tape is straight and parallel to the floor.
2. Next, measure the distance between bust points. This crucial measurement helps determine the correct horizontal placement of your darts.
3. Finally, measure the distance from shoulder/neck point to bust point. Find the neck point by wearing a simple chain necklace or bending your neck toward the shoulder to locate the crease. This measurement determines the correct vertical position of your darts.

Record these measurements on your measurement chart for reference.

Step 2: Compare Your Measurements to the Pattern

Now that you have your personal measurements, it's time to compare them to the pattern.

1. On your pattern piece, locate the bust point marking (usually indicated by a small circle or dot).
2. Measure the distance from the shoulder/neck point to the bust point on the pattern.
3. Compare this to your personal shoulder-to-bust measurement. If there's more than a 1/2" difference, you'll need to adjust the dart position.
4. Similarly, measure the distance between bust points on the pattern (from one side to the other) and compare to your measurement.

Step 3: Mark and Adjust the Bust Point

If your measurements differ from the pattern, you'll need to relocate the bust point:

1. On your pattern, use a colored pencil or marker to make the current bust point visible.
2. Based on your comparison, mark where your actual bust point should be. If your shoulder-to-bust measurement is shorter than the pattern, move the bust point up. If it's longer, move it down.
3. Similarly, adjust the horizontal position based on your between-bust-points measurement.
4. Draw your new bust point clearly on the pattern paper.

Step 4: Redraw the Dart Lines

Once you've repositioned the bust point, you'll need to redraw the dart:

1. The bust point is the apex of the dart - where the dart lines should converge.
2. Using a ruler, draw new dart legs from the new bust point to the original positions at the seam or opening.
3. Remember that the dart point should stop about 1" away from your actual bust point to avoid the "pointy" effect.
4. Ensure both dart legs are equal in length for a balanced look.

Step 5: Test the Adjustment With a Muslin

Before cutting into your fashion fabric, make a test version:

1. Cut a muslin (test fabric) using your adjusted pattern.
2. Sew the darts and try on the garment.
3. Assess the fit: The dart should point directly to the fullest part of your bust without creating wrinkles or pulls.
4. Make additional adjustments if needed, then transfer these back to your paper pattern.

Step 6: Transfer to Your Final Pattern

Once you're satisfied with the dart position:

1. Make all final adjustments to your paper pattern.
2. Mark the dart clearly with notches at the opening and a dot at the point.
3. Note any changes you've made for future reference when using this pattern again.
4. Now you're ready to cut your fashion fabric with confidence

Moving Forward With Proper Dart Placement

Perfect bust dart position isn't just about technical sewing skill—it's about creating garments that truly fit and flatter your unique body.

When your darts are correctly positioned, everything else falls into place: the fabric drapes properly, the garment hangs beautifully, and you feel comfortable and confident in your handmade creation.