Stafford Jacket Sew Along Part Seven: Sewing the Sleeves
Welcome to the Stafford Sew Along part seven - today we are going to attach the sleeves. If you are just joining us, be sure to look back to the previous the Stafford Sew Along posts. If you have been sewing with us this whole time, then you are almost finished! We will have one more post, and then you can wear your fabulous new spring jacket. Let's get sewing!
With right sides together, matching notch, sew Front to Back and side seam. Clip and notch out seam allowance at hem foldlines as shown. Finish.
Because the fabric can get bulky along the seam allowance, Linda recommends this method for trimming the seam. Measure 1" above the top notch on the seam allowance and mark. Trim and grade the seam allowance ⅜" up to that mark, and then clip into the allowance to the stitching line.
Then, press the clipped seam allowance open. Press the finished seam allowance to the front. Later, when you fold and stitch the hem in place, this unfinished seam allowance will be covered by the hem.
Topstitch the side seam, connecting to the top and bottom of the pocket topstitching. Leave the tails and tie off.
Machine baste on the seamline between dots on the sleeve. Use the Pressing with Templates method to make a 1 ⅝" -wide finished hem. Hem will be stitched later.
With right sides together, sew Sleeve seam. Finish seam and press towards the back.
Press hem in place. Topstitch 1 ½" from the edge along the inner folded edge. Topstitch again ¼" from the bottom edge.
On the side back, clip seam allowance to dot at underarm stitching. Pull bobbin thread slightly to ease shape into sleeve cap. With right sides together, matching notches, seam to dot at underarm and top dot to shoulder seam, sew Sleeve to armscye. Finish seam. Press towards garment.
Topstitch sleeve seam on Front and Back Yokes only.
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