How to Sew Overlapping Seams in 4 Easy Steps

If you're looking for a simple way to give your garments a cleaner finish, you've come to the right place.

Overlapping seams are one of the easiest ways to ditch the boring straight stitch and go for something with a bit more style and class.

But here's the thing:

If you make a mistake, even just one of the small details, you could end up with a stitch that puckers, is misaligned, comes undone, or just looks completely homemade.

That's why in this article, we'll go over how to sew overlapping seams in just 4 steps, how to deal with common problems, projects that use overlapping seams, and also answer a few frequently asked questions.

Let's dive in. 

How to Sew an Overlapping Seam

Step #1: Pick a Fabric That Doesn't Fray

Before sewing an overlapping seam, it's crucial that you choose a fabric that doesn't fray.

Overlapping seams have the raw edge facing outwards, so if your fabric frays, it'll be visible to everyone.

Some fabrics that don't fray include:

• Wool jersey
• Fleece
• Jersey Knit
• Interlock Knit
• Most knitted fabrics
• Neoprene

Step #2: Determine Seam Direction

Take your fabric pieces and place one over the other.

Seams are overlapped in the same direction as you would press a one-way seam, i.e., front over back at side and shoulder seams, center front and back seams overlap in either direction.

Step #3: Prepare the Fabric

Begin by marking or cutting away the seam allowance for the overlapping piece. (Some patterns have you cut the seam allowance for the overlapping piece, while in others, you simply mark the fabric.)

Chalk mark the seam allowance line on the underlapping seam, about ⅜". 

Apply Fusi-Web next to the chalk mark within the seam allowance of the underlap.

Remove the paper covering.

Place the overlapping seam edge next to the chalk line and press to fuse the seam in place.

This replaces the need for pinning the fabrics together. The adhesive holds the seam together for the duration of the stitching.

Step #4: Sew!

On the right side of the seam, stitch next to the raw edge.

Sew another row of stitching 1/4" from the first.

You can either leave the excess seam allowance on the underside of the seam or trim close to the stitching.

Common Problems While Sewing Overlapping Seams (And How to Fix Them)

Here are some common issues people run into when sewing overlapping seams for the first time:

• Fabric shifts while sewing - If you're having a hard time keeping the fabric aligned while sewing, you can use fusible tape to hold the fabric in place. If you don't have fusible tape, you can also use fabric glue or sew a basting stitch.

• Visible seam allowance show-through - If you can see the underlapping seam allowance through your fabric, trim the seam allowance as close to the stitch as you can.

• Loose, flappy seam edge - This typically happens if you sew too far away from the seam edge. You'll want your first row of stitching to be as close as possible to the raw edge. If your seam edge is too big, you can also carefully trim it with fabric scissors.

• Fabric puckering - If your fabric is puckering along the seam, try lowering the pressure of your presser foot. Also, be careful not to stretch the fabric as you sew, since this may be the cause of puckering. 

Projects With Overlapping Seams

Want to have a go at overlapping seams?

These 2 patterns use overlapping seams, so you can put your skills to the test: 

Chateau Popover

The Chateau Popover originated from the Chateau Coat, but in a pullover style that's great for daily wear.

It's loose, super comfortable, and you can pair it with almost any top that you want.

This project is also a lot of fun to sew. Not only does it have overlapping seams, but you'll also learn how to work on loose-fitting garments.

Learn how to sew this by clicking here. 

Picasso Top and Pants

The Picasso is a loose-fitting top and pants set that's not only stylish but also very elegant.

While you don't have to sew overlapping seams with this pattern, the Picasso uses knitted fabrics that don't fray, so it's a great project to try this technique on.

Best of all, this project is both a top and pants, so you don't have to stress about what to pair your top with anymore.

Check out the pattern here. 

Frequently Asked Questions About Overlapping Seams

Why Sew an Overlapping Seam?

Overlapping seams have a flat finish, so they look less bulky. This gives them a clean, minimalist look and works great on slightly stretchable fabrics.

With an overlapping seam, you also don't need to worry about finishing raw edges.

It's also not as difficult to sew as a French seam, but it is also much cleaner than a regular seam. 

What's the Best Fabric for Overlapping Seams?

Knits and any fabric that doesn't fray work for overlapping seams.

One of our favorite fabrics for the Chateau Popover (and overlapping seams in general) is the wool jersey.

Our wool jersey is made from Merino wool. Merino wool is made from the Merino sheep, which was originally bred in New Zealand. This fiber is much finer than average wool, which makes it soft and less itchy. In terms of wearability, many people think of wool as a winter fabric, but in fact, it is a four season.

The crimp of wool fiber can trap in air, which will insulate you and keep you warm in the winter. But say you want to wear that same garment in the summer? Well, Merino wool has amazing wicking properties that trap moisture in the air and from your body, which is stored in the fiber.

This doesn't mean that it feels wet, though, as Merino wool can absorb up to 30% of its weight in moisture and still feel dry to the touch. Instead, in the summer as it gets hot, the moisture that the wool has trapped in its fiber will start to evaporate between the fabric and your body, cooling you down. It comes with its own air conditioner!

Can You Use Overlapping Seams on Woven Fabrics?

Only when you're using a woven fabric that doesn't fray, such as felted wool or heavily textured bouclé.

Most other woven fabrics fray and can unravel the seam. 

Ready to Sew Overlapping Seams?

Overlapping seams not only give your garments a clean, professional look, but they're also remarkably easy to sew.

So grab your fabric, pick a pattern, and follow the steps above!

You'll end up with a lovely finish that's a lot cleaner than a regular straight stitch.

But don't stop there!

There are actually five other techniques like this that professionals use to make their clothes so much cleaner and better than home sewists.

It's these techniques that enable designers to make even the simplest shirt look stylish.

And the crazy thing is?

It's not at all difficult to learn these — you don't need any special equipment!

That's why we've put together a free training going over these five techniques. And if you want in, just click the button below to get started.